Pointers for painting over an already camo-dipped Shotgun

[TheGDog]

I have a Benelli SuperNova I purchased used. It is factory-covered in a Duck Hunting camo dip.

Unfortunately that is not an activity I readily see myself participating in.

I purchased the shotgun for predator hunting in certain thick chapparal and desert areas.


My question is what kind of prep work do I need to do in order to paint over it's camo dip coating?
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Can I just thoroughly clean the outside of the shotgun with Rubbing Alcohol and that would be enough?

Or do I have to "rough-up" the surface of that camo coating a lil bit with like a super high-grit sanding paper or rubbing/surface-prep compound?

.

 

[nicapopolis]

I wouldn't bother painting it, buuuut projects like that are rewarding and fun, so go for it. The current camo pattern will work just fine for what you are hunting.

I bet you can apply a primer right to the current surface and it would hold well, but if you want better quality I would sand the whole gun for better adhesion.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[SurfNHuntSD]

Why paint over it? Benelli Supernova in Max-5 is a nice looking gun. I think the camo finish is more $$ than the synthetic black too.. I'd leave it. But if I were to do it, like Nick said, I'd really sand it down and clean it with alcohol or 3M Remover before primer and paint.

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[TheGDog]

I don't disagree that it is a nice-looking gun. But I don't want a nice-looking gun, I want a hard to see gun for the terrain types that I will be in.

RE: sanding... I was thinking 3000 fine grit probably, Yes?

I just want it to blend better with my gear and the terrain type I'll be using it in. We'll see. if I get around to it or not.


I'm trying to think of what's the best way to tape-up the ejection port. I think the loading port should be easy to mask off, but that ejection port seems like it'd be a little tricky to get taped up perfectly. Although I supposed it'd be hard to tell if I don't do the best job since it's already camo'd underneath anyway.

Besides... I figured it'd be fun to hear all the Duckers cry "Blasphemy!" over this

 

[TRICER]

I don’t think any Camo pattern will make the gun harder to see one way or another. Generally when I shoot predators with my shotgun they are coming hard and fast the gun could be hot pink and it wouldn’t matter. I wouldn’t paint it. Just my 2 cents

 

[TheGDog]

Well... one of my main objectives with the shotgun is Bobcat in this one area where the terrain is thick... but my sit is over a motion decoy and caller in one of the only opened-up corridors thru a sea of thick shoulder-height chapparal.

And NO... so far... those Bobcats do NOT come in hard-charging. More like a glacier flow making it's way to the ocean.

And yeah... to be honest I'm sketchy to the idea of painting, only because I wonder about it making it harder to resell at some point in the future.

 

[Bowman]

Resale will be a problem.
If you got your mind set.
Think about a vapor blast.
Or walnut blast. Take it apart
And mask it well and very low pressure
Blast. 60 psi. Or less.
Plug the barrel and mask all moving parts with tape.
A vapor blast will not Remove metal.
Sanding will and can.

I agree with every one else don't touch it. I think it will work great the way it is.
It looks like a stick.

 

[TheGDog]

OK, this video changed my mine... I guess I'll be leaving the Ducker camo alone!

Dang those are some Big Bobcats!

 

[Aeon]

I have painted my super 90 with rad results. I would strip the dip and start new. Remeber any bare aluminum needs to be etched and alodine treated or the paint won't stick.

Apply light coats of primer and cure 24hrs between coats. Sand after each coat. Then do your color

The real key to the process is clear matte on the finish. Super light coats and heat cure 24hrs between. Use a halogen shop light to warm it. 5 to 7 light coats.

Fyi camo will not help you kill cats,

 

[ilovesprig]

The last sentence....^^^^^^

 

[TheGDog]

Camo plus holding still DEFINITELY helps you with cats! That I do know first hand. Although, I'm talking about clothing, and now I realize you guys are probably talking about the gun itself. So oopsie.

 

[TheGDog]

BTW Aeon, what acid is used to etch the surface? where to get it? Where to get the alodine?

Yes, the clear matte really seals-the-deal. Gotta apply that lightly though. Seemed to real easy want to build up in thickness such that it'd want to create some shine. Real quick learned to back away and hold spray greater distance away and faster strokes with the clear matte when did my air rifle.

FYI, HOT TIP! They have this clingy elasticized dark netting material available at Halloween Club, that stuff makes an AMAZINGLY good and natural looking random pattern when sprayed thru!

Here, lemme find a pic from the early stages of doing my AirRifle.. that netting material you see in this pic. The pattern it makes looks Bad-@$$. And what's neat is because of the elasticity, you can pick and choose where you want to warp the pattern by tighten it out more in one area versus another.

 

[Bowman]

Alodine is a trade name for chemical film coating for bare
Clean aluminum. Normally industrial use. For aluminum parts. Corrosion coating.
Not sure if they sell a consumer
Version. Normally requires a special permit. For use and disposal. Maybe some can get you a small pint. You normally dip parts in a tank for industrial grade.
Bare aluminum creates an oxide surface. Which is why the etch.
I don't remember from memory
What is but. For cleaning 10% solution of hydrochloric acid.
Or muriatic acid.. with distilled water.

 

[TheGDog]

Hrmm.. Ok. Maybe my next-door neighbor might have access to some. Their family has a metal-plating business.

RE: Cleaning. Gotcha, already got muriatic acid already because of the pool, so cool.

 

[Bowman]

What exactly is made out of aluminum on the shotgun.
Not the barrel, or Carriage Bolt.

 

[Bowman]

Never etch steel heat treated above Rockwell hardness of 40 HRc scale unless it is immediately baked at 300 degrees F for
4 hours min. To prevent hydrogen
Embrittlement. It causes steel to
Turn like glass and will fail under stress. Crack or shatter.

 

[Aeon]

Recivers and trigger plate are aluminum on many shotguns.
This is a good tutorial on what to use and how to use the two chemicals. Did a whole airboat and have lost zero paint. Remeber its only needed if the aluminum is bare. Anodized will take paint pretty good.
Alumaprep 33 and alodine 1201 are readily available @longbowhunter2 you don't need any permits good lord. Amazon will ship to your door

 

[Aeon]

No clue if the nova has a aluminum reciver, all of benelli's auto loaders do but i have never owned a nova

Just read up on it and don't think it's aluminum like a black eagle

 

[Bowman]

Yes true I Google it. It is available on line. I guess in factory type work environment it's more touchy.
By the way there are three types of anodize. Chromic, sulfuric and hard anodize. Hard anodize will
Slightly change dimensions. The
Other two will will have no change
or negligible change.

Hard anodize is used for wear resistance. And all three can have
Chem film coating. With different
Colors or clear.
I have experience mostly in a factory environment.
Ever see the green primer on aircraft. Sight to see.

 

[Bowman]

In a work environment we have follow lots of stupid rules and regulations. And ISO 9001.
It got very frustrating and tedious.
So why the assumption.
No worries got it clarified.